Five Days in Northwest Kyushu: A Road Trip Adventure - Part 1
Landing in Fukuoka and picking up a rental car at the airport was just the start of an unforgettable five-day adventure through northwest Kyushu. From savoring live squid sashimi in Karatsu to exploring volcanic landscapes and hidden historical gems, this road trip was packed with spectacular views, vibrant cultural experiences, and some of the best food Japan has to offer. Here’s a first-hand account, divided into 3 parts, of our journey—perfect inspiration for your own Kyushu adventure.
Cherry Blossom, Kyushu
About Kyushu
Kyushu, Japan’s third-largest island, lies in the country’s southwestern corner and is famous for its stunning natural landscapes, rich history, vibrant cities, and exceptional cuisine. It’s an island of contrasts—from volcanic peaks and lush forests to coastal towns steeped in history. Given its vast size and diversity, our five-day adventure focused specifically on the northwest region, which offered a perfect blend of cultural highlights, culinary delights, and natural wonders to explore at a leisurely yet exciting pace.
Day 1: Arrival in Fukuoka and Evening in Karatsu
We touched down at Fukuoka Airport around 5 PM, greeted by the warm, humid air of Kyushu. Picking up our rental car from Orix at the airport was smooth, and soon we were on the road, excited for the journey ahead. The drive to Karatsu took about an hour and a half, taking me past lush green hills and glimpses of the sea as dusk fell. By the time we reached Karatsu city, the sky was indigo and the streets were quiet, lit by old-fashioned lanterns. We checked into a cozy local hotel and felt immediately at ease in this small coastal town.
Eating live squid sashimi, Karatsu
Dinner that night was an unforgettable introduction to Karatsu’s seafood. We found a local eatery famed for its ika no ikizukuri – live squid sashimi. The chef brought out a translucent squid, artfully arranged on a platter of ice. The flesh was so fresh it was almost transparent, and the tentacles were still moving – a slight wriggle that both startled and fascinated us. With a deep breath, we sampled the sashimi. It had a clean, sweet taste of the sea and a surprisingly firm texture, absolutely delicious. After we had eaten the sashimi, the staff took the remaining squid parts back to the kitchen and returned with crisp tempura made from the squid’s legs. The contrast was perfect: the tempura was hot, golden and lightly salted, a satisfying finish to the ultra-fresh sashimi experience.
Karatsu Shrine at night
After dinner we took a leisurely evening stroll through Karatsu. The streets were calm, and we passed several small izakayas with locals chatting inside. Karatsu is famous for its annual festival, so as we walked we weren’t surprised to see photos and posters of enormous festival floats on display in shop windows. These Hikiyama floats are the pride of Karatsu – massive, colorful creations that parade through the city each year during Karatsu Kunchi. We even spotted a plaque describing them: apparently they’re giant wooden floats up to 5–6 meters high and weighing as much as 2–5 tons! The floats often take the shape of samurai helmets, dragons or mythical sea creatures, and locals spend years crafting them. Though we were visiting off-season, just seeing the photos of these majestic floats gave me a sense of the town’s community spirit and history. With that image in mind, we headed back to the hotel to rest, falling asleep to the sound of distant ocean waves.
Day 2: Yobuko Morning Market, Karatsu Castle, Arita Porcelain, and Unzen Onsen
We woke up before dawn to drive to Yobuko, a small fishing port north of Karatsu, famed for its daily morning market. The road was quiet as the sun began to rise, and we arrived in Yobuko early enough to see the market just coming to life. The Yobuko Morning Market (Yobuko Asaichi) is often mentioned among Japan’s best morning markets – it’s been running for over a century. Walking down the street, we felt like we’d stepped back in time. Elderly vendors lined both sides of the narrow road, energetically calling out to potential customers. You could tell this town had seen busier days as a booming fishing hub, and while Yobuko is a bit faded now, the market retains a special energy thanks to these dedicated shopkeepers. The salty smell of the sea mixed with the aromas of cooking food, and my stomach rumbled. We hadn’t eaten breakfast yet, so we happily snacked our way through the market on seafood delicacies foraged from different stalls:
Sake-boiled whelks (tsubugai), Yobuko Morning Market
Fresh squid tempura – Tender pieces of squid caught that morning, lightly battered and fried on the spot. They were handed to us piping hot in a paper cone, the batter wonderfully crisp and the squid inside sweet and chewy.
Steamed octopus balls – Not takoyaki, but actual golf-ball-sized chunks of octopus tentacle that had been slowly steamed until tender. The vendor speared one with a toothpick for us to try. It was pleasantly chewy and briny, and surprisingly filling.
Sake-boiled whelks (tsubugai) – Huge sea snail shells caught my eye at one stall. These whelks had been simmered in sake and soy sauce, and the vendor showed us how to use a toothpick to extract the meaty snail from its shell. I popped the morsel in my mouth – it was firm and slightly chewy, with a rich, oceanic flavor that was enhanced by the savory sake broth.
Eating seafood this fresh, basically straight off the boat, for breakfast was a novel experience and absolutely delicious. As we ate, we chatted (with Google Translate and hand gestures) with a friendly Japanese couple eating whelks with us. Even though Yobuko isn’t as bustling as it once was, the market street was lively, and we felt a sense of nostalgia and warmth there. With a contented belly, we thanked the vendors and bought a bag of sun-dried cuttlefish as a souvenir snack for later.
View from Karatsu Castle
Leaving Yobuko, we drove back toward Karatsu to do a bit of sightseeing we’d missed the night before. Our first stop was Karatsu Castle, which sits on a hill by the bay. The castle was originally built in the early 17th century, though the current building is a reconstruction from 1966, rebuilt to serve as a local history museum and symbol of the city. The castle keep (donjon) rises five stories high, painted white with traditional grey tiles, and from afar it looked majestic against the blue sky. We climbed up the stone steps, surrounded by lush greenery, to reach the castle. Inside, the exhibits on local history were modest, but the real treat was the view from the top floor. Stepping out onto the observation deck, I was greeted with a panoramic view of Karatsu: the town spread out below, the curved beach, and the vast Genkai Sea shimmering beyond. In the distance, I could see a dark green band stretching along the coast – this was Nijinomatsubara, Karatsu’s famous pine forest.
Nijinomatsubara, Karatsu’s famous pine forest
After descending from the castle, we decided to drive through Nijinomatsubara on our way out of Karatsu. This pine forest is about 5 kilometers long, a dense grove of some one million black pine trees planted centuries ago. Legend has it that the forest was planted in the 17th century by the local feudal lord to protect Karatsu Castle from sea winds and invading sand. Driving along the straight road that cuts through these pines felt magical – tall trees flanked both sides, their branches forming a tunnel of green. Sunlight filtered through needled boughs, and occasionally we caught glimpses of the ocean between the trunks. It was a refreshing, fragrant drive (the scent of pine and ocean air is something I won’t forget), and we even pulled over briefly to walk a short trail into the forest. Within a few steps, the sounds of traffic faded and we were surrounded by towering pines and the soft carpet of needles underfoot. This tranquil natural spot is considered one of Japan’s three great pine groves, and it’s easy to see why – it felt like a living work of art.
Back on the road, we headed southwest toward Arita, eager to explore the hometown of Japanese porcelain. The countryside scenery along the way was beautiful – rolling hills and terraced rice fields – and after about an hour we arrived in Arita. This small town in Saga Prefecture is celebrated as Japan’s ceramics capital, known for Arita-yaki (Arita ware) porcelain. The history here is fascinating: about 400 years ago, Korean potters brought their expertise to Kyushu. In 1616 a Korean potter named Yi Sam-pyeong discovered high-quality kaolin clay in Arita, which led to the birth of Japan’s first porcelain industry. Soon, exquisite Arita porcelains were being produced and shipped around the world (often via nearby Imari port), even influencing European ceramics. We visited the Tōzan Shrine. It has a porcelain archway and other items of porcelain which, at other shrines, are usually made of stone. This Shinto shrine was and still is particularly revered by Arita's ceramists.
Tōzan Shrine, Arita - the only shrine in Japan with a porcelain archway
The town itself was like a playground for a pottery lover. Kilns, workshops, and shops line the streets, many with chimneys poking up into the sky. We strolled down Kamamoto-dori (Potter’s Street), peeking into quaint stores filled floor-to-ceiling with porcelain ware. There were delicate hand-painted teacups, bold modern ceramic art pieces, everyday plates and bowls, and everything in between. One highlight was visiting a warehouse sale where we could literally rummage through piles of pottery. Picture a rustic shed behind one of the pottery studios, with stacks of wooden crates covered in heaps of plates, cups, and vases – all the excess or slightly imperfect pieces from the kilns. It was a delightful treasure hunt: we gently sifted through stacks of saucers and bowls, trying to spot any hidden gems. They weren’t perfect (a little asymmetry here, a tiny glaze bubble there), but that made them feel even more special as handmade mementos of Arita. Wrapping up my “finds” carefully, we grabbed a quick coffee at a café housed in a former porcelain factory (even the coffee cups were Arita-yaki, of course) and then continued on our journey.
By late afternoon, we were back on the road, driving south toward Unzen in Nagasaki Prefecture. The road wound through mountains as we ascended the Shimabara Peninsula. We arrived in the town of Unzen Onsen by early evening. Unzen is a highland onsen (hot spring) town famously nestled among thermal hot springs and volcanic landscapes. We had booked a stay at a traditional ryokan overlooking a peaceful mountain lake (Lake Oshidori). The ryokan was a classic wooden building with tatami-mat rooms and yukata robes laid out for guests. From our room’s window, we gazed out at the lake, and the water reflected the twilight sky and forested hills.
Our room in the Ryokan, overlooking the lake, Unzen
Nagasaki beef
After checking in, we were served a kaiseki dinner in the ryokan’s dining hall. Course after course of seasonal dishes arrived, each beautifully presented on local ceramic ware. There was a clear broth with tofu and local vegetables, sashimi, and a grilled river fish (yamame trout) skewered on a bamboo stick, salted and roasted over a charcoaled fire – it tasted clean and sweet. The highlight was Nagasaki wagyu beef, served as thin slices on a small tabletop grill so I could cook each piece to my liking. The beef was exquisite: marbled, buttery, practically melting in my mouth.
Fully satisfied, we changed into the cotton yukata and headed for the onsen bath. The ryokan’s onsen had both indoor and outdoor baths fed by Unzen’s natural hot springs. Slipping into the steaming mineral water was pure bliss after a long day of traveling. The outdoor bath faced the lake – in the darkness we could just make out the silhouette of trees and the glitter of stars overhead. We let the hot water soak away the day’s fatigue as we listened to the chorus of frogs and the occasional hoot of an owl. In that moment, with all senses relaxed, we felt completely content. That night we fell asleep on the futon feeling the calm that only a hot-spring ryokan can provide.
You can see Part 2 of this trip blog in the link here.
See the Side of Japan Only an Insider Can Show You
If this journey through Kyushu has sparked your sense of adventure, we’d love to help you experience it for yourself—without the hassle. At Expeditioner Travel, we specialize in crafting tailored, all-inclusive itineraries that offer a premium to luxury experience in lesser-known parts of Japan like Kyushu. Whether you’re dreaming of soaking in tranquil hot springs, dining on the freshest seafood, or exploring rich cultural and historical gems off the beaten path, we’ll take care of every detail. Get in touch with us today to start planning your unforgettable Kyushu escape.
