Five Days in Northwest Kyushu: A Road Trip Adventure - Part 2
This is a continuation of our Kyushu road trip adventure—picking up right where we left off after exploring Karatsu, the ceramic wonders of Arita, and relaxing in the tranquil hot springs town of Unzen. You can see Part 1 of this trip blog in the link here.
In this second part, we dive deeper into the volcanic landscapes and historical sites of the Nagasaki Prefecture and the city Kumamoto.
Japanese breakfast at Ryokan, Unzen
Day 3: Unzen’s Hells, Scenic Passes, Hidden Christian History, and Kumamoto Castle
Morning in Unzen was nothing short of heavenly. We woke up early and started our day with another soak in the onsen – there’s something indulgent about a morning hot spring bath that makes you feel both tranquil and invigorated at the same time. The air was crisp and cool outside the water, but the bath was perfectly hot, easing us into the day. After bathing, we enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast at the ryokan. It was a beautifully laid out tray with grilled fish, tamagoyaki (rolled omelet), nori seaweed, pickles, miso soup, and the centerpiece: a pot of freshly steamed Nagasaki rice. The rice had been cooked in a small cast-iron pot and was incredibly fluffy and fragrant. There’s a saying that the best compliment you can give rice is that you can eat it on its own – and this rice definitely passed that test! We savored each bite, knowing we had a full day ahead.
By mid-morning we headed out to explore Unzen’s famous Jigoku, literally “Hells.” Just a short walk from the town center, we found ourselves in what looked like an otherworldly scene: a barren valley with steaming sulphur vents, bubbling mud pools, and hissing hot springs everywhere. The ground was white-yellow with mineral deposits, and the air was thick with the smell of sulfur (like overcooked eggs, but you get used to it). This area, called Unzen Jigoku, has been a tourist attraction since the Meiji era and is part of Unzen National Park – which, fun fact, was designated as Japan’s first national park in 1934. Wooden boardwalks led us through the smoking landscape. We could hear the gurgle of boiling water beneath us and occasionally a loud hiss as steam burst forth from the earth. There are around 30 geothermal hotspots scattered about, each with names like “Oito Jigoku” and “Shiraginu Jigoku.” Some had milky water bubbling violently, others just expelled steam from fissures in the rocks. Despite the ominous name “hell,” I found the scene strangely beautiful – like a living, breathing planet showing off its raw power.
One of the many “hells” in Unzen
However, Unzen’s Hells hold a dark historical significance as well. During the 17th century, when Christianity was banned in Japan, this very spot was used as an execution ground for Christian martyrs. It’s chilling to imagine, but Christians were tortured here in the boiling waters to force them to renounce their faith, and some were ultimately killed – it’s said 33 Christians were martyred in Unzen’s waters between 1627 and 1631. Today a small memorial stands in the area, the “Unzen Jigoku Martyrdom Site,” to commemorate those who lost their lives. The juxtaposition of the natural beauty and its historical horror was poignant.
Nita Pass, Unzen
From Unzen Onsen, we hopped back in the car and drove further up into the mountains to Nita Pass (Nita-toge). The road to Nita Pass was a winding mountain road, with each turn offering sweeping views of the valley below. Partway up, we parked and we were treated to a breathtaking panorama: a sea of clouds drifted over the peaks and we could see the shimmering Ariake Sea and Shimabara Peninsula stretching out below. Mount Unzen is actually a series of volcanic peaks, including the infamous Heisei Shinzan, a newer lava dome that formed after Unzen’s eruption in the early 1990s. From the observation deck, we could see the rugged shape of Heisei Shinzan, still looking a bit barren from the eruption’s aftermath. The air up there was fresh, with a slight smell of sulphur reminding us of the volcano’s presence. The scenery was lush and alive, a stark contrast to the hellscape just a few kilometers below. Standing at Nita Pass, we felt on top of the world – it was one of those moments where you take a deep breath of mountain air and just feel grateful to be experiencing it.
A Christian statue honors those who lost their lives at Hara Castle Ruins, Minamishimabara.
After descending from Nita Pass, we began making our way towards the coast of the peninsula for the next leg of the journey. Driving along country roads, we headed to the southern tip of the Shimabara Peninsula, to visit the Hara Castle Ruins in Minamishimabara. At first glance, Hara Castle doesn’t look like a typical castle; today it’s an open field on a coastal bluff, with only scattered stone foundations and some earthworks left. But this site holds immense historical importance. It was here in 1637–1638 that the Shimabara Rebellion, a massive uprising of mostly Christian peasants, took its final stand. The rebels, led by a young Christian leader named Amakusa Shirō, fortified themselves in the abandoned Hara Castle and held out against the shogunate’s forces for months. Eventually, the castle fell, and what followed was a grim tragedy. The shogunate’s army, furious and unforgiving, executed an estimated 37,000 rebels and sympathizers – men, women, and children – by beheading, effectively crushing the rebellion. Standing on this ground gave me goosebumps. It’s hard to imagine that level of carnage in such a now-peaceful spot; the grass swayed gently in the sea breeze and I could hear waves crash against the cliffs below. There is a small monument and some informational signs (as part of the UNESCO “Hidden Christian Sites” since this is indeed a UNESCO World Heritage site now). This quiet field was once soaked in blood and tears, and it marked the end of Christianity in Japan for over two centuries. It was a somber visit, but meaningful – a reminder of how much history lies hidden in tranquil places.
From Minamishimabara, we drove to the port of Shimabara and caught the ferry to Kumamoto on the other side of the bay. The car ferry was a pleasant 60-minute ride across the shimmering waters of Ariake Sea. We stood on the deck, watching seagulls trail the boat. In the distance behind us, the silhouette of Unzen’s mountains faded into the haze, and ahead, the land of Kumamoto grew closer. By late afternoon, we arrived at Kumamoto City, a lively city on Kyushu’s west coast. Our primary goal for the evening was to see Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan’s most impressive and storied castles.
Outer Wall, Kumamoto Castle
Kumamoto Castle did not disappoint – even from afar, it’s an imposing sight with its towering black-and-white keeps and extensive fortifications. Often cited as one of Japan’s top three premier castles (alongside Himeji and Matsumoto), Kumamoto Castle was originally built in the early 1600s by the famed lord Katō Kiyomasa. The main tower (tenshu) is massive and black-walled, with distinctive curved stone ramparts at its base known as musha-gaeshi designed to thwart climbers. We arrived near closing time, so we couldn’t go inside the castle museum, but walking around the outer grounds was incredible. Kumamoto Castle’s exterior has been largely restored after a history of warfare and even a recent earthquake. As we strolled through the castle park, the late-day sun lit up the castle towers, and we could see ongoing restoration work (scaffolding on some sections) from the 2016 earthquakes that had damaged parts of it. Even so, the main silhouette of the castle looked magnificent against the orange sky. we wandered along the moat, marveling at the huge stone walls and imagining the samurai who once walked these grounds. Locals were out jogging or walking their dogs around the park – such a casual setting for one of Japan’s greatest castles! When the lights came on after sunset, the castle was illuminated in a soft glow, giving it a romantic, ethereal atmosphere.
The centre of Kumamoto was buzzing in the early evening, with numerous shops and eateries lining up the pedestrianised area. It reminds me of Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street at Osaka, albeit with its own unique charm, such as the image of Kumamon, the beloved bear mascot representing Kumamoto Prefecture. Introduced in 2010 as part of the “Kumamoto Surprise” campaign to promote the region following the opening of the Kyushu Shinkansen line, Kumamon quickly captured hearts across Japan and internationally. His name combines “kuma” (meaning bear in Japanese) and “mon,” a regional dialect term meaning “person” or “thing,” effectively translating to “bear from Kumamoto” . With his round black body, red cheeks, and playful demeanor, Kumamon has become one of Japan’s most iconic and endearing regional mascots.
As night fell, I reflected on the day’s journey: from volcanic hells and hidden Christian sites to this proud castle, we had truly traveled through centuries of history in a single day. Kumamoto Castle stands proudly in Kumamoto City. Visiting this historic fortress – considered one of Japan’s top three castles – was a highlight of Day 3. The castle’s massive wooden keep and black walls have been painstakingly restored and still exude the power and elegance of feudal Japan.
You can see Part 3 of this trip blog in the link here.
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