Five Days in Northwest Kyushu: A Road Trip Adventure - Part 3

This is the third and final installment of our Kyushu road trip, continuing from our explorations of volcanic Unzen and historic Kumamoto. In this part, we journey deeper into the region’s natural wonders, visiting the legendary Takachiho Gorge and ascending the majestic Mount Aso before returning to Fukuoka for a delicious culinary finale and some leisurely last-minute shopping. You can see Parts 1 and 2 of this trip blog in the link here.

Day 4: Mythical Takachiho Gorge and the Majesty of Mount Aso, then Back to Fukuoka

Takachiho Gorge

We rose early in Takachiho, a town nestled in the mountains of Miyazaki Prefecture that’s steeped in Japanese mythology. Takachiho is famous for its gorge and its legends, and we were eager to see both. We were at the Takachiho Gorge just after 8am, and it was like stepping into a fantasy. The Gokase River has carved a narrow chasm through volcanic rock, creating vertical cliffs draped in lush greenery. At the bottom, emerald-green water flows gently, and from the cliffside pours the beautiful Manai Falls, a slender white ribbon of water dropping into the river below. We decided to walk along the gorge to see the falls up close. As we went deeper into the gorge, the temperature dropped a little – cool mist from the waterfall and shade from the high cliffs made it refreshingly cool. The walk through Takachiho Gorge was enchanting: the basalt cliff walls are hexagonal, almost looking like giant stone pillars stacked tightly. Small cascades dripped down the mossy walls, and every bend revealed a new angle of the waterfall. When we got right in front of Manai Falls, we took a pause to take it in – a curtain of water plunging into the calm river, sunlight hitting the spray and forming a faint rainbow. It was one of the most stunning natural sights I’ve seen – steep verdant cliffs, clear water, and that ethereal waterfall combined into pure magic.

After visiting the gorge we explored some of the local shrines in Takachiho, which are tied deeply to Japanese mythology. Takachiho is known as the land where one of Japan’s most important myths took place. According to legend, the sun goddess Amaterasu once hid herself in a cave here after a quarrel with her brother, the storm god Susano’o, plunging the world into darkness. The other gods gathered at Amano-Iwato (the “heavenly rock cave” in Takachiho) to figure out how to get her to come out. They decided to throw a raucous party outside the cave. One goddess, Ame-no-Uzume, began dancing hilariously – a dance so bawdy and comic that it made all the gods roar with laughter. Curious about the noise, Amaterasu peeked out of the cave, and at that moment the strong god Ame-no-Tajikarao yanked her out, bringing sunlight back to the world.

Amano Iwato Shrine

We visited the Amano Iwato Shrine, which is dedicated to this legend. The shrine itself is a serene spot in the woods, and a priest kindly guided us to an observation point where we could look across a river valley at the cave (by tradition, you can’t approach the cave directly since it’s a sacred site, and photography is not allowed). It was pretty awe-inspiring to stand in the area where this mythological event is said to have occurred – it’s like being at the setting of an ancient story. The idea of the sun disappearing and then being brought back to light the world made the daylight around us feel even more precious.

We also stopped by Takachiho Shrine, a venerable shrine in town surrounded by huge cedar trees. This shrine is famous for nightly Yokagura dances, which reenact the myth of Amaterasu and other stories (performed in winter months). Though we weren’t there at night to see a performance, even during the day the shrine had a mystical atmosphere. Tall cedars towered over the pathways, and shimenawa ropes (sacred ropes) wrapped around their massive trunks, signifying their holy status. A pair of carved stone dogs (koma-inu) guarded the entrance, their features softened by moss and time. I rang the shrine bell and made a simple prayer, feeling grateful for safe travels and the chance to witness such culturally rich places.

Leaving the realm of myths behind, we drove southward toward Mount Aso, one of Japan’s greatest natural landmarks. Mount Aso is an enormous volcano, known for having one of the largest calderas in the world – basically a huge basin formed by ancient volcanic eruptions, within which several peaks, including the active crater Naka-dake, are found. The drive into the Aso region was gorgeous, especially as we entered the caldera area: gentle grassy plains spread out, dotted with grazing horses and cows (Aso is famous for ranching), and the skyline was dominated by the smoking cone of Naka-dake.

Crater of Mount Aso

We went up to the Mount Aso viewpoint (at Daikanbo) to fully appreciate the scale. From there, looking out over the Aso caldera felt like looking over a whole kingdom. The caldera stretches about 25 km across, with a patchwork of fields and villages on the flat valley floor and a ring of mountains encircling it. In the center were the active peaks, including Mt. Naka, which was billowing a column of white smoke from its crater. We were lucky that conditions were safe that day to go up to the crater itself (sometimes access is closed due to poisonous gases or activity). So we drove up to the Aso Volcano Museum area and crater rim. The landscape turned otherworldly again – black lava rocks, sparse vegetation, and the strong smell of sulphur as we neared the crater. We parked and walked to the crater’s edge (staying behind the safety ropes).

Kusasenri-ga-hama, Aso

Looking down into Mount Aso’s active crater was thrilling: there was a bubbling neon-turquoise lake at the bottom, steaming and hissing. The inner walls of the crater were stained yellow and orange from sulphur. Every now and then, the wind would shift and a gust of sulphurous steam would make everyone cough and step back. It truly felt like peering into the Earth’s boiling cauldron. I was both in awe of nature’s power and maybe a tiny bit nervous knowing I was standing on an active volcano. But there were plenty of other tourists and even school kids on trips, all equally amazed. We snapped lots of photos and then retreated to get some fresh air. On our way down, we stopped at one more spot: Kusasenri-ga-hama, a picturesque grassy plain at the foot of Mt. Eboshi (another Aso peak), where horses roam freely. The afternoon light over the green plain, with horses nibbling on grass and the smoking volcano in the background, was a scene of peaceful coexistence between pastoral life and the raw forces of nature.

By late afternoon, it was time to head back to Fukuoka to conclude our loop around northwestern Kyushu. The drive from Aso back to Fukuoka took a couple of hours. We passed through rolling hills and then onto the expressway. The sun was setting as we approached Fukuoka, painting the sky in hues of pink and gold. We re-entered the urban world of Fukuoka City in the evening, the lights of the city twinkling and modern high-rises coming into view. It felt almost jarring after days of castles, hot springs, and country roads – but Fukuoka is a comfortable and fun city, so I was also looking forward to a final night here. We checked into a hotel near Hakata Station. Dinner was kept simple after such a long day; we found a casual yatai (street food stall) near the hotel and snacked under the night sky. Tired, we sank into my hotel bed that night, and couldn’t help but marvel at how much we had experienced in just four days.

Yatai street food, Hakata

Day 5: Fukuoka Foodie Finds and Farewell

Our final day in Kyushu was dedicated to enjoying Fukuoka – especially its food and some last-minute shopping. Fukuoka is known as one of Japan’s great food cities, particularly famous for its hearty Hakata ramen and street food, so we were excited to indulge before heading home.

In the morning, we sought out a highly recommended local bakery café called Dacomecca (stylized as DACOMECCA). It was tucked away on a side street near Hakata Station, and as soon as we entered, the smell of freshly baked bread and coffee enveloped us. This bakery has a bit of a cult following; it’s known for creative pastries that blend Japanese and Western styles. We grabbed a tray and tongs (as is typical in Japanese bakeries) and picked out a few treats: a tamagoyaki (egg) sandwich; a ham and cheese sandwich; a delicious pastel de nata; and a fluffy croissant that the staff insisted we try. We ordered hot lattes and ended up with an eclectic pastry feast!. Biting into each piece of bakery, I could see why Dacomecca is so loved. The croissant was indeed excellent, buttery and flaky as any I’ve had in France. It was a slow, relaxing breakfast, and a nice change after so many rice-based meals. Sometimes, a good coffee and pastry can be just as memorable as a fancy kaiseki dinner...

Tomonzoe Honten, Hakata

After breakfast, we decided to do a bit of shopping and wandering. One stop on our list was a famous liquor store called Tomonzoe Honten. We wanted to pick up some local alcohol as souvenirs – perhaps a bottle of shochu or sake unique to Kyushu. Tomonzoe Honten turned out to be a treasure trove. It’s an old shop with a charming, cluttered interior, shelves upon shelves of bottles. There are so many choices that I’d love to buy: a bottle of Imo Shochu (sweet potato shochu) from Kagoshima, a local craft umeshu (plum liqueur) made with green tea from Yame, and a pretty bottle of sake from a Fukuoka brewery. I also spotted jars of homemade umeshu with whole plums in them and a wall of various distilled spirits. It felt like a place with a lot of history – the kind of liquor store that has been family-run for generations.

Next, we headed to the Tenjin Underground Shopping Mall (Tenjin Chikagai) for some last-minute shopping and to escape a light drizzle that had started outside. Tenjin Chikagai is an amazing place – it’s essentially a long, elegant underground street lined with over 150 shops, boutiques, and cafes, all beautifully designed. The floor is tiled, the ceilings have painted patterns, and it has a slightly European feel to its design. As we walked through, we browsed everything from trendy clothing stores to cosmetics and gift shops. We ended up buying some local snacks (I stocked up on Hakata Torimon sweets – a kind of bean-paste filled butter cookie that’s a famous Fukuoka omiyage, perfect for sharing with colleagues back home). The underground mall is so extensive that you can pop up in various parts of the Tenjin area, but we navigated it pretty well and found ourselves in the modern Daimaru Department Store at one end. In the basement food hall of Daimaru (I can never resist a depachika!), we marveled at the gorgeous array of prepared foods and sweets. We picked up a box of Nagasaki castella cake and some spicy Karashi mentaiko (marinated cod roe) – both local specialties – to take home.

Hakata Ramen

For lunch, it had to be Hakata ramen. We chose a popular ramen-ya known for the local style. Fukuoka’s Hakata ramen is famous worldwide for its milky, rich pork-bone broth (tonkotsu) and ultra-thin noodles cooked firm (what locals call barikata if you like them extra firm). We sat at the counter and soon had steaming bowls in front of us: a creamy, opaque broth topped with slices of tender chashu pork, a sprinkle of green scallions, some pickled red ginger, and a drizzle of black garlic oil. The thin noodles were perfect to slurp. I added a spoonful of spicy mustard greens and a clove of freshly crushed garlic to mine (you can customize to taste). The first sip of that broth was like a hug for the soul – thick, collagen-rich, and garlicky, it’s the ultimate comfort food. The noodles, being so thin, pick up the broth wonderfully with each slurp. We ate quietly, the only sounds being contented slurping (in Japan it’s polite to slurp your noodles!). The description from a guidebook I once read came to mind exactly as I tasted it: “ultra-thin ramen noodles in a rich pork broth topped with simmered pork slices, black mushrooms, red ginger, and scallions” – yes, that was precisely what I was devouring. It was heaven in a bowl and a fitting final meal in Fukuoka. Feeling full, I performed the Hakata ramen ritual of kaedama – ordering an extra serving of noodles to finish off the remaining broth. The shop staff, with practiced speed, refilled my bowl with a fresh tangle of noodles, and I happily continued until every drop of broth was gone.

Love eating ramen with a high ball or a whisky sour

With our stomachs full and time running short, we made our way back to Hakata Station for some final errands. Hakata Station is not just a train hub, it’s a multi-story shopping complex in its own right. We spent our last hour browsing through the souvenir floors there (called Hakata Meihinkan). The station announcements were humming in the background, and commuters were rushing for their trains, reminding us that soon we’d be joining them. We made sure to repack our luggage to accommodate all the fragile items (lots of bubble wrap and careful stuffing of clothes around the bottles and ceramics). Finally, it was time to return the rental car. We drove back to Fukuoka Airport’s rental drop-off, bid farewell to our trusty road-trip vehicle, and took the shuttle to the terminal.

As I settled into my seat on the flight out of Fukuoka, I gazed out the window at the city one last time. In five days, we had driven through a kaleidoscope of experiences: from eating live squid in Karatsu and watching the sunrise at a rustic fish market in Yobuko, to walking through the steaming volcanic Hells of Unzen and reflecting on history at Hara Castle; from visiting the Takachiho’s mystical gorge to standing on the edge of Aso volcano; and finally indulging delicious flavors of Fukuoka City. The culture, history, nature, and food of north-west Kyushu had all left deep impressions on me. This road trip was relaxing in pace yet rich in discovery – each day felt like a small adventure of its own. I left Kyushu with a heart full of fond memories, a camera full of stunning photos, and a promise to myself to return again to this enchanting corner of Japan. Until next time, mata ne, Kyushu!

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